Portraits of Eastern Europe (2027) - 19 days Bucharest to Prague

Bucharest began as a fortress in the 15th century, a warlike origin that set the tone for its turbulent history. It saw glory days as the summer residence of the Wallachian princes and was burned to the ground by the Ottoman Turks; then Austria-Hungary and imperial Russia fought over it for a century. After Wallachia and Moldavia united to form Romania in the mid-19th century, Bucharest enjoyed a prosperity that was reflected in its extravagant architecture, some of which miraculously survived WWII bombing and Communist building programs.

You’ll see Bucharest’s very own Triumphal Arch, which is modeled after the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and Victoria Boulevard, lined with chic shops and handsomely restored pre-war buildings—and sites where protests brought down Ceaușescu’s regime in 1989. These days Bucharest enjoys a lively and eclectic cultural scene, hosting international arts festivals and concerts, and a measure of prosperity apparent in its busy cafés and thriving street life.

For the most dazzling stop of the day, you’ll visit the colossal People’s Palace, the second largest office building in the world. It’s certainly one of the grandest as well, filled with crystal chandeliers, mosaics, marble, gold leaf, and stained-glass windows. A remnant of the city’s communist history, the building’s original design took a team of approximately 700 architects and was inspired by Socialist Realism, Modernism, and Neoclassical architecture. Though the People’s Palace was ordered by Nicolae Ceaușescu, the last communist leader of Romania, it was not completed until 8 years after his death. The Palace now houses the Romanian Parliament and three museums, including a contemporary art museum and the Museum of Communist Totalitarianism.

Twice the capital of Bulgaria—before and after the Ottomans conquered the nation—Veliko Tarnovo climbs steep hills above the Yantra River, topped by the ruins of Tsarevets, the stronghold where Bulgaria’s kings ruled between 1185 and 1393. The remains of the great stone walls and towers that you see formed the historic heart of the Second Bulgarian Empire. History lives in this town, as a quick look at the wares for sale in Samovod Marketplace will show you: Handicrafts are all made by local artisans using ancient, medieval, or Renaissance technologies. You’ll have time to peruse the exceptional local pottery and textiles there before heading to Arbanassi, home to six amazing 17th-century stone churches, each one decorated with colorful and intricate frescoes. Learn something of the multicultural history of this fascinating town at the Ethnographic Museum and visit the UNESCO-designated Nativity Church, where murals of the Nativity, the Last Judgment, and the zodiac brilliantly blend religious and humanist iconography. At another of the churches, Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel, you’ll hear the otherworldly singing of an Orthodox choir in a short concert. Your day’s adventure includes a traditional three-course Bulgarian lunch, complete with live folk music.

Walk through the woods of Rusenski Lom, a protected region that is home to a wide variety of rare birds, among other wildlife, to Ivanovo Rock Monastery—once an enclave of more than 40 churches and chapels that the devout built inside caves above the Lom River Valley. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is famous for its beautiful and well-preserved 14th-century murals.

Your next destination, the Basarbovo Rock Monastery, is the only rock monastery where monks still live and worship today. Climb the narrow rock stairway to the 15th-century cloister, which is cut into the limestone cliffs high above the Lom River, and take a look at the arresting frescoes. You’ll also spend some time in Ruse, a city with an easygoing, gracious feeling. Freedom Square, a huge open plaza, takes its name from the Freedom Monument, which soars from the center of the square; the stately Belle Epoque buildings surrounding the square attest to the city’s prosperity in the 1890s. Stroll along wide, tree-lined Alexandrovska, the main pedestrian street that links the city’s many attractive squares, encountering such landmark sights as Ruse’s grand theater, the city museum, and the first movie theater (it opened in 1896).

Drive through the scenic Bulgarian countryside to Belogradchik, a small town in the foothills of the Balkan Mountains, not far from the Serbian border. After some light refreshment at a local hotel, you’ll be ready to explore the astonishing rock formations nearby, which are over 200 million years old—and have inspired nearly as many legends! Many of the strange wind- and weather-hewn shapes have names, such as Adam and Eve, the Bear, and the Castle. The outcroppings formed a natural defense for the town that was enhanced with man-made fortifications over the centuries. Whether you choose to hike with a local expert to the top of the path or not, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views. Your return will take you past some sights that highlight Vidin’s mixed heritage: the Orthodox cathedral, the Turkish mosque, the Konak (the 18th-century headquarters of the Turkish police), and the cruciform barracks (which date to the 1790s). The final stop will be Baba Vida, whose stern 10th-century stone walls were built on the site of a Roman watchtower.

In the village of Negovanovtsi, you’ll find the Dos Alamos Winery. This boutique estate makes excellent use of the local terroir, where a combination of sandy soil, continental weather, and plenty of sunshine blesses their hillside vineyards with high-quality grapes.

Lepenski Vir is one of the largest and most significant prehistoric archeological sites from the Stone Age, located on the Danube. It was once the epicenter of one of the most highly developed prehistoric cultures, with complex social relations and even rudimentary urban planning. The discovery of this prehistoric settlement has changed the image experts once had about the early Stone Age, expanding scientists’ knowledge about human communities that walked the earth millennia ago.

Later, you’ll visit Golubac Castle, one of the best preserved medieval fortresses in Europe, a powerhouse that has loomed over the Danube for centuries.

Take in the breathtaking landscape of Djerdap National Park, where rolling green hills rise above a stretch of calm Danube waters. We’ll set out on an easygoing hike, approximately half a mile each way, to the best vantage spot in the park: the Kovilovo Viewpoint. This spacious outlook presides over an impressive portion of the Danube that is about a mile wide.

Join us on a private after-hours visit to the Kalemegdan Fortress. Considered one of the most culturally significant monuments in the country, this imposing structure sits on a cliff overlooking the Danube. It’s the perfect setting for an atmospheric evening of music, arranged just for our guests.

Please note: on this itinerary's March 30 and April 4 departures, the private evening excursion and concert will instead take place in the National Museum of Serbia, which houses an impressive collection of Serbian art and archeological findings.

As a motorcoach carries you through the city, you’ll see a mix of architectural styles that reveal the city’s past, ranging from Gothic, Ottoman, baroque, and art nouveau to utilitarian Communist apartment blocks and modern high-rises. While Belgrade has been no stranger to political upheaval, the 19th-century Residence of Princess Ljubica and serene old residential streets speak of calmer days, as do the bustling present-day café-lined boulevards. You’ll pass the tomb and memorial museum of Josip Broz Tito, which is located at the site of Tito’s former residence in Belgrade’s affluent Dedinje neighborhood, and visit Kalemegdan Fortress, high on a hill above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers.

Ancient Romans built the first fortress here, and successive conquerors and defenders—Slavs, Byzantines, Ottomans, Habsburgs—continued to build and destroy fortifications on this site for another 1,500 years. Walk along the old stone walls, passing monuments and memorials (some will surprise you—poets and composers are honored here as well as military actions), for a sense of Serbia’s distant and more recent history. It’s not the only intriguing historical sight you’ll see today, however. You will also visit the Karadjordjevic Dynasty Palace and sip a glass of sparkling Serbian wine as you tour a compound of palaces built in the 1920s and 1930s. Serbia’s royal family, which is related to most of Europe’s royalty, has a strictly honorary position in modern-day democratic Serbia, but Crown Prince Alexander (who did not feel that taking the title of king was appropriate when his father died in exile in the United States in 1972) and his family still live in these palaces. A local expert will show you the public rooms of the Royal Palace, the White Palace, the adjacent chapel, and the spacious grounds.

Mount a bike and spend a leisurely half-day getting an up-close look at Belgrade. Ride towards the island of Ada Ciganlija, an island in the middle of the Sava river with picturesque bike paths that wind through a beautiful park and beach. We’ll circle through the park, just as the locals do when they are looking for an active day out, and take a break with a refreshment before heading back to the ship.

Visit the Vučedol Culture Museum. The concept behind this unique museum is integration into the terrain—the entire structure is designed to be mostly buried in the ground and only the façade is open to the landscape. On the building’s green roof, you can reach the archaeological sites over the museum. Along the serpentine path, you’ll encounter archaeological findings that have been discovered to date, which showcase the daily life and customs during a turbulent time of the immigration of the first Indo-Europeans and their relationship with the native population, the blending of material cultures and religions.

Following your time at the museum, you’ll be welcomed into a local family’s home for a traditional meal before embarking on a sightseeing tour of Osijek with a local guide. As you walk through cultural heart of Croatia’s Slavonia region, you’ll note the city’s attractive ambience, nostalgic charm, and plentiful green spaces.

Visit Vukovar, a revitalized community determined to rebuild from the bitter Croatian War of Independence. Here, you’ll tour the Baroque Eltz Manor, an 18th-century palace that now houses the Vukovar City Museum.

Next, enjoy a delicious lunch at a family-run restaurant before setting out on a panoramic drive through the streets of Osijek. The cultural heart of Croatia’s Slavonia region, Osijek is a picturesque city with a range of architectural styles on display, from the Baroque buildings of Tvrđa—Osijek’s Old Town, home to a Habsburg fort created as a line of defense against the Ottoman Empire—to Secession mansions and a Neo-Gothic church built of eye-catching red bricks.

This panoramic tour is a wonderful way to get an overview of the city if you have never been here before. It will carry you from Heroes’ Square, created in 1896 to honor the thousand-year anniversary of Hungary’s founding and its greatest historical figures, past some of the city’s most striking architectural sights—Dohány Street Synagogue, the Hungarian National Museum, the state opera house, St. Stephen’s Basilica and the truly stunning Parliament Building—to Castle Hill, which has been called the heart of the nation. The city of Buda began here, when King Béla built a strong keep in 1243 as a defense against Mongol invaders; a castle replaced the simple fortress, and over the centuries other castles replaced that one. The current castle is primarily 18th century; a museum dedicated to Budapest’s archaeological finds is housed there, and the Castle Hill district has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You’ll go inside the magnificent 700-year-old Matthias Church, named for one of Hungary’s greatest kings, and then wend your way on foot to the picturesque Fisherman’s Bastion, whose seven fairytale-like towers represent the seven tribes that originally settled the region. It offers a glorious view of the city and the Danube below.

Note: Visits to the interior of Matthias Church may not be possible on some weekends and Catholic holidays.

Following World War II, Hungary spent 40 years as the Soviet-backed Hungarian People’s Republic, a fascist regime that was massively unpopular for its oppressive politics, brutal secret police force (the ÁVH), and declining economic conditions. An uprising in 1956 failed to eradicate the Soviet-backed government, but did eventually result in more liberal policies. The Hungarian People’s Republic finally ended with the fall of the Soviet Union in 1989.

Step into the past for a tour of this fraught history, beginning at the Budapest Retro Interactive Museum. Afterwards, you'll drive by Heroes’ Square on your way to Gellért Hill for spectacular views over Budapest, where you’ll see Hungary’s own Statue of Liberty. Originally erected as a monument to the Soviet “liberation” of Hungary from Nazi occupation, the statue’s inscription was later altered to celebrate Hungarian independence, freedom, and prosperity without mention of Soviet intervention.

It was 1790 when Doctor Zwack, Royal Physician to the Imperial Court, offered the Habsburg monarch a sip of Unicum as a cure for his indigestion. Upon tasting, the monarch exclaimed, "Dr. Zwack, das ist ein Unikum!" Translation: "Dr. Zwack, this is unique!"—thus earning this herbal tincture its name. The beverage, which contains over 40 herbs, spread across the royal court in Vienna, growing more and more popular by the day. Learn more about Doctor Zwack and the Unicum brand and take a sip of history on this exclusive distillery tour. This experience is truly one of a kind and sure to delight the mind as well as the palate.

Explore the “City of Waltzes” from a Jewish heritage perspective on today’s outing. Beginning at the Judenplatz, you’ll learn about the community’s history and follow in the footsteps of some of the most internationally well-known figures. Your guide will take you by the Shoah Monument and Jewish museum, then stop at the Stadttempel, Vienna’s main temple and the only synagogue to have survived the “Night of Broken Glass”—a pogrom against Jews throughout Nazi Germany, Austria and other areas in the region. This temple dates back to 1826 and is the only synagogue in Vienna built in the simple, yet elegant, “Biedermeier Style.”

Note: The synagogue will not be available for visits on Jewish holidays; if unavailable, we will visit the Vienna Jewish Museum instead.

The Belvedere is a Baroque palatial complex commissioned during an immensely productive Habsburg building spree. Originally the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the complex was acquired by Empress Maria Theresa after his death and turned into an exhibition venue for imperial art collections. In this way, The Belvedere become one of the first public museums in the world. Today it is one of the finest art collections anywhere, making it an incredibly popular destination for Vienna tourism. Take a tour of the Upper Belvedere exhibits, including the world’s largest collection of works by Austrian artist Gustav Klimt. His most famous work, “The Kiss,” is on display here.

The Babenbergs, a great medieval ducal family that controlled a wide swath of Austria before yielding to the Habsburgs, were the first to erect a castle on the hill above Melk, which they subsequently gave to Benedictine monks. These monks, some 900 years ago, turned it into a fortified abbey and the greatest center of learning in Central Europe. Their library was celebrated far and wide (and still is—Umberto Eco paid tribute to it in his best-selling novel The Name of the Rose). Monks there created more than 1,200 manuscripts, sometimes spending an entire lifetime hand-lettering a single volume. Today the library contains some 100,000 volumes, among them more than 80,000 works printed before 1800. This beautiful complex, completely redone in the early 18th century, is a wonderful example of baroque art and architecture, and the views from its terrace are spectacular. As you walk through the abbey’s Marble Hall with your guide, look up at the ceiling fresco painted by Paul Troger: Those classical gods and goddesses represent Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI, allegorically bringing his people from darkness to light and demonstrating the link he claimed to the original Roman Empire.

Set off on an invigorating bike ride from Engelhartszell to Passau, led by an experienced professional bike guide. Wind your way through the lovely countryside, along the Danube’s right side, into the picturesque Danube Valley. These particular landscapes are some of the most beautiful in all of Europe—characterized by expansive vineyards, tree-lined slopes, and castle-dotted hillsides—and seamlessly blend the region’s cultural, historical and natural components together. Pedal onwards toward Passau, past more charming villages, meadows and orchards, rounding out your trip in Passau’s Old Town.

A local family welcomes you into their home today for a deeply personal and rare travel experience. You and your small cohort will get a sneak peek into real Bavarian life as you chat with your hosts over a snack of your hosts’ choice—typically coffee and cake or a traditional brotzeit spread comprised of bread, various toppings, and beer. They’ll share stories of a life lived in Passau, and you are encouraged to ask questions to better engage with local culture!

In the woods outside Passau lies the Saußbachklamm, a tiny creek running through a picturesque rocky landscape. Continue hiking deeper into the woods with your local guide, and you’ll arrive at a charming cabin, where the owner will be waiting to serve you their favorite local treats, such as smoked fish, craft beer, and specialty schnapps.

This city tour leaves no stone unturned. As you walk around Passau with an expert guide, you’ll learn the history of the city, admire the must-see sites, and uncover hidden gems. What truly sets this experience apart are the local vendors you’ll meet along the way. Pop-in to meet craftsmen at work and listen to their tales of living in the city as they show off their artistry. Who you’ll meet depends on what businesses are open that day. Perhaps a pottery maker? A goldsmith? A baker? Or an artist? Whatever your visits may be, you’ll leave with a little gift by which to remember your day in Passau.

One unique way to experience life like a local—look to mimic their favorite escapes. Your hiking path along the Ilz today is one that is much loved by the people of Passau when they seek to get active and find peace in nature. We’ll begin at our dock and head to the Veste Oberhaus, a striking fortress overlooking the city. During the hike, you’ll have the opportunity to take a break for refreshments on your own or simply stop and appreciate the view.

This evening, Regensburger Domspatzen will treat you to a private concert in their famous Gothic cathedral. Literally translated to “The Regensburg Cathedral Sparrows,” the Domspatzen is the oldest boys’ choir in the world, dating back to the 10th century.

People have been describing Regensburg as “old and new” for a thousand years. A single structure perfectly illustrates this: Porta Praetoria, the gate built by the Romans during Marcus Aurelius’ reign. The gate and adjacent watchtower have been incorporated into a much newer building, but the plaster has been removed to reveal the ancient stones laid so long ago.

As you walk through the cobbled lanes of the UNESCO-designated Old Town, the city’s 2,000-year history is similarly revealed: the Stone Bridge that made Regensburg a 12th-century trading powerhouse, the Gothic town hall where the Imperial Diet met for three centuries, the 13th-century fortified patrician houses, and the spectacular Cathedral of St. Peter, whose magnificent 14th-century stained-glass windows alone are worth your walk.

You’ll have free time to explore on your own. It’s very hard to get lost in Regensburg because the spires of the cathedral are visible all over town, so don’t hesitate to roam. The historic quarter not only boasts almost a thousand beautiful old buildings, but also many cozy pubs and some great shopping. The ship is docked conveniently close, so it’s easy to drop your treasures off and go back for more.

Join your local guide for a walking tour through the delightfully medieval town of Regensburg. Stroll over the Iron Bridge and on to the magnificent Stone Bridge, and pass by the architectural Gothic masterpiece of St. Peter’s Cathedral. Regensburg is the oldest documented settlement of Jewish people in Germany and your walk through the former Jewish Quarter (Neupfarrplatz) will introduce you to their enduring legacy here. See the Dani Karavan Monument memorializing the original Regensburg Synagogue and visit Oskar Schindler’s house.

Make your way to the New Synagogue for a presentation about Jewish culture and history in Regensburg.

Situated amid Prague’s Old Town is the best-preserved complex of historical Jewish monuments in all of Europe. The site of the former Jewish ghetto, the Jewish Quarter is home to the Jewish Museum in Prague, comprised of six synagogues, as well as the Jewish Ceremonial Hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery. This area escaped destruction during the Holocaust by becoming the planned site of a Nazi museum, and consequently also housed stolen Jewish artifacts from all over Europe. Visit this district with your guide to see some of the oldest preserved Jewish monuments on the continent and learn about the community’s turbulent past.

Get an overview of the city with a panoramic tour that carries you past such sights as the State Opera House, the National Museum, and Wenceslas Square. After strolling through Golden Lane, a street of quaint cottages where Prague's 17th-century goldsmiths lived (alas, there's no truth to the legend that it was named for the royal alchemists), you may reboard the motorcoach for a ride back to the hotel or continue our guided walk through the picturesque Lesser Quarter, the district around Prague Castle, to Charles Bridge. Cross the landmark bridge named for Charles IV, who ordered its construction in 1357; it's strictly for pedestrians now, so you can pause and look down at the Vltava below you and examine some of the statues that line the bridge, before you head to Old Town Square. This was the original market square; the buildings that surround it form a case study in Prague's architectural history. You'll find Prague's most famous Gothic church, Our Lady Before Týn, there, along with the 14th-century Old Town Hall (which boasts a famous medieval astronomical clock), the beautiful baroque St. Nicholas, the rococo Kinsky Palace, and a group of Renaissance houses.